Tuesday, September 20, 2011

DONSOL, SORSOGON - A Surreal Encounter with the Gentle Giant


I was in Naga City last March 2011 to accompany my eldest daughter for her intensive training in Math. While she and her friends/classmates were busy pouring over math worksheets, we (the mothers) took a trip to the once sleepy town of Donsol, Sorsogon for a once-in-a-lifetime experience with the “butandings.”  


“BUTANDINGs ” or whale sharks are considered to be the largest fish in the world (they are not mammals like whales) and are known to visit the waters of Donsol from November to May. 


Initially, I thought butanding-watching is all about sitting on a motorized banca, waiting for them to show their fins above water or jump like dolphins in the ocean. But when a friend kept on reminding me to “dive,” I did a little research and realized that to better appreciate them, the experience actually calls for you to jump into the sea and swim. :O The fact that life vests are available is of little comfort as I am not a swimmer and I have never tried jumping into an open sea (once in a trip to Bohol, I managed to go down from the banca but ended up just holding on the banca’s katig while my husband and cousin-in-law were gushing just how beautiful the reefs are below). 


BANCAs For Rent
When we reached Donsol, I was still unsure if I would take the “plunge.” Nevertheless, I went on to rent snorkeling sets for me and my 8-year old daughter Denise “just in case.”  Denise insisted that she’s not going to swim but “knowing her,” I ignored her adamant declarations. 


Since we drove 3 hours just to get there, I psyched myself to jump and trust my life vest which already bore visible signs of wear and tear. First to jump were Apple and Joy (whom we just met) with our designated guide, Larry. After their jump, I was horrified when our banca immediately sped away leaving the three in open sea. Apparently, we can’t stay put as we have to give way to the other bancas with passengers already raring to jump and there is a maximum number of bancas allowed to stay near the butandings. This means, you have to wait for a few minutes for your boat to come back and get you.  


THE PLUNGE
When it was my turn to jump (Denise was still steadfast in her decision not to jump), Larry made some hurried instructions about blowing water from your snorkel right after you surface from the jump and before I knew it, it was time for me to jump. They said you have to move fast as the butandings will not wait for you. Larry was holding my hand to guide (drag, actually) to the spot where the butanding is. Then he shouted for me to look down. The first thing I saw are its unmistakable spots. For first timers, this will instantly give you a sense of awe to be just a few feet away from the gentle giant. It’s huge but it glides gently and smoothly. I tried to swim and follow it for a longer viewing experience but within a few seconds, it was gone. 


LEFT in Open Sea
BUTANDING's unmistakable spots


















In my succeeding jumps and just as I expected, Denise was already eager to dive and was even asking for more “jumps”. This time, I had a better view and it was so near we could almost touch it.  I was wishing I know how to swim so I don’t have to wear the life vest and I could go under and swim alongside or in front of it for a while just like the pictures I see in travel magazines. All the same, the entire experience is surreal and is definitely worth the 3-hour drive and having to wake up at three in the morning.
The SPOTTER
As the name implies, he is
responsible for spotting the
butandings hence, the need to be
on a high vantage point


HOW TO GET THERE: Donsol, Sorsogon is a 3-hour drive from Naga City (1 hour if you’re coming from Legazpi City). You can hire a van for 5k or a taxicab for 4k to bring you there and back to Naga City in a day.  Since we have to reach Donsol early, we left Naga at about 4am. We reached the Tourism Office at about 7am and a short line was already forming outside the tourism office (I was told the office usually opens at about 7:30-8am).  


Registration process: (1) You will be asked to fill out a form stating your name, etc… (2) Registration fee is P100/pax regardless of age. (3) Rental of a motorized banca, including one guide is P3500. Each banca will accommodate a maximum of 6 tourists (excluded from the count are children, the guide, the spotter and their assistants). You may request for additional guides at P600/guide. (4) After registration, you will be asked to watch a short video clip showing the dos and don’ts. (5) And off you go…..


Snorkeling sets and flippers are being rented out just in front of the tourism office at P150/snorkeling set/pair of flippers 
hmmm...... how come they have nicer and newer life vests?
My Travel  Buddy

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