The Magnificent SOHOTON of Bucas Grande Island, Surigao

Going there from Davao City entails about 9-hour travel by land (including stops for meals) and a 45-minute boat ride, but the long trip is all worth it.

On our boat ride, we saw several islets (which are actually rocky cliffs with heavy vegetation) looking like mini forests floating on sea. There were also several “pocket” white sand-resorts surrounded by lush greenery making them secluded from each other. Our first stop was in one of these resorts, The La Fortuna, to have lunch. Nearing the resort, we noticed how clear the water is. When I got down from the boat and stepped on the beach, first thing I took note of is its powder-like sand which could easily rival that of Boracay’s. 

Swimming with the jellyfish

After our lunch, we were transported to their non-sting jellyfish sanctuary. The sanctuary looks like a lagoon as it is almost entirely surrounded by greeneries except for a small entrance which can only accommodate small paddle boats. Once there, you can go down your boat and experience the thrill of swimming with thousands and thousands of jellyfish. Incidentally, that was my favorite part of the trip.

One of the few transparent jellyfish we saw

After the adventure with the jellyfish, next stop was the SOHOTON CAVE and COVE. The cave is the only entrance to the cove where the water is partly salt water and partly fresh water. Since the cave is submerged in water during high tide, the cove is only accessible during low tide. According to our guide, the name “Sohoton” comes from the Visayan word “suot-suot” which means to squeeze yourself into narrow paths just like what you have to do to get inside the Sohoton Cove. Inside were more greeneries and splendid turquoise blue waters. We were then brought to “HAGUKAN” Cave where we were asked to go down from our boat and swim inside and see ourselves “glowing” in the water. If you’re looking inside with the entrance of the cave at your back, the person in front of you will look like he’s glowing. The “glowing” effect is actually caused by the light coming from the outside. The cave got its name from the Visayan word “hagok” which means to snore because when it is filled with water, it emits snore-like sounds. 

Look Ma! I'm GLOWING!

Next stop is the “MAGKUKUOB” Cave. Since it’s low tide, there were just a few inches of water inside. This is the final stop of the day where, according to the guide, we will have our “graduation.” By “graduation,” he means that we will climb to the cave’s other exit and once we’re out, we have to jump into the water about 15 feet below! Since there will be no other way to go down (going down the same path would be harder), those who chose to climb HAVE to jump. And jumped we did. 

The "Graduation" Jump

On our way back to our resort, we were lucky to have spotted 2 beautiful rainbows. 

One of the 2 rainbows we spotted

The second day, we explored “BOLITAS” Cave. We were shown the crystals, stalagmites and stalactites. Adding to the 

CRYSTALS

thrill was the sound of a rattle snake. However, to see the “bolitas,” you have to literally crawl into another opening of the cave. Only one person can fit the opening and there can be no more than 6 persons who can go inside the chamber all together. Upon seeing how hard it was for our first batch of “crawlers” to go in and out the chamber, we passed up on the chance to go inside :). We were also brought to “TIKTIKAN” Lake (which entails a 100-meter hike) but since we were told the soil in the lake is muddy, we opted not to swim and just took picture. Last activity of our 2nd day was snorkeling in crystal blue waters where beautiful corals abound even in shallow waters. 

The Beautiful TIKTIKAN Lake

HOW TO GET THERE FROM DAVAO CITY: 9-hour land trip via Butuan to Hayangabon Port (Butuan to Hayangabon Port is approximately a 3-hour drive) and a 45-minute boat ride from the port. 

Boat Ride to Bucas Grande Island
from Hayangabon Port

WHAT TO BRING: If you are a large group, the life vests of your guide might not be enough so bring extras. They won’t provide snorkeling sets so bring your own. Aqua shoes are also a must. 

HOW MUCH IT WILL COST YOU: For our group, we paid about 4K+ each which includes all the boat transfers (from Hayangabon Port and back and in-between islands), 2-night accommodation at the Hidden Resort, all our meals and the guides. Not bad. :) 

The view on the other side of the island

WHAT I DIDN'T LIKE: The view on the other side of the island is its exact opposite. No more lush vegetation because of mining activities. I heard they promised to replant on the affected areas. I hope that would be enough to bring it back to its former grandeur.  



FOOD: You're surrounded with water so expect your guides to serve you seafood. They don't usually serve pork unless you ask for it.

Mini LOBSTERS

GIANT Crabs!! Yummy

PARADISE

HIDDEN Resort - This is where we stayed for 2 nights

The VIEW from our room

One of the many "POCKET" RESORTS 

A fancier resort

DONSOL, SORSOGON - A Surreal Encounter with the Gentle Giant

I was in Naga City last March 2011 to accompany my eldest daughter for her intensive training in Math. While she and her friends/classmates were busy pouring over math worksheets, we (the mothers) took a trip to the once sleepy town of Donsol, Sorsogon for a once-in-a-lifetime experience with the “butandings.”  

“BUTANDINGs ” or whale sharks are considered to be the largest fish in the world (they are not mammals like whales) and are known to visit the waters of Donsol from November to May. 

Initially, I thought butanding-watching is all about sitting on a motorized banca, waiting for them to show their fins above water or jump like dolphins in the ocean. But when a friend kept on reminding me to “dive,” I did a little research and realized that to better appreciate them, the experience actually calls for you to jump into the sea and swim. :O The fact that life vests are available is of little comfort as I am not a swimmer and I have never tried jumping into an open sea (once in a trip to Bohol, I managed to go down from the banca but ended up just holding on the banca’s katig while my husband and cousin-in-law were gushing just how beautiful the reefs are below). 

BANCAs For Rent

When we reached Donsol, I was still unsure if I would take the “plunge.” Nevertheless, I went on to rent snorkeling sets for me and my 8-year old daughter Denise “just in case.”  Denise insisted that she’s not going to swim but “knowing her,” I ignored her adamant declarations. 

Since we drove 3 hours just to get there, I psyched myself to jump and trust my life vest which already bore visible signs of wear and tear. First to jump were Apple and Joy (whom we just met) with our designated guide, Larry. After their jump, I was horrified when our banca immediately sped away leaving the three in open sea. Apparently, we can’t stay put as we have to give way to the other bancas with passengers already raring to jump and there is a maximum number of bancas allowed to stay near the butandings. This means, you have to wait for a few minutes for your boat to come back and get you.  

THE PLUNGE

When it was my turn to jump (Denise was still steadfast in her decision not to jump), Larry made some hurried instructions about blowing water from your snorkel right after you surface from the jump and before I knew it, it was time for me to jump. They said you have to move fast as the butandings will not wait for you. Larry was holding my hand to guide (drag, actually) to the spot where the butanding is. Then he shouted for me to look down. The first thing I saw are its unmistakable spots. For first timers, this will instantly give you a sense of awe to be just a few feet away from the gentle giant. It’s huge but it glides gently and smoothly. I tried to swim and follow it for a longer viewing experience but within a few seconds, it was gone. 

LEFT in Open Sea

BUTANDING's unmistakable spots

In my succeeding jumps and just as I expected, Denise was already eager to dive and was even asking for more “jumps”. This time, I had a better view and it was so near we could almost touch it.  I was wishing I know how to swim so I don’t have to wear the life vest and I could go under and swim alongside or in front of it for a while just like the pictures I see in travel magazines. All the same, the entire experience is surreal and is definitely worth the 3-hour drive and having to wake up at three in the morning.

The SPOTTER
As the name implies, he is
responsible for spotting the
butandings hence, the need to be
on a high vantage point

HOW TO GET THERE: Donsol, Sorsogon is a 3-hour drive from Naga City (1 hour if you’re coming from Legazpi City). You can hire a van for 5k or a taxicab for 4k to bring you there and back to Naga City in a day.  Since we have to reach Donsol early, we left Naga at about 4am. We reached the Tourism Office at about 7am and a short line was already forming outside the tourism office (I was told the office usually opens at about 7:30-8am).  

Registration process: (1) You will be asked to fill out a form stating your name, etc… (2) Registration fee is P100/pax regardless of age. (3) Rental of a motorized banca, including one guide is P3500. Each banca will accommodate a maximum of 6 tourists (excluded from the count are children, the guide, the spotter and their assistants). You may request for additional guides at P600/guide. (4) After registration, you will be asked to watch a short video clip showing the dos and don’ts. (5) And off you go…..

Snorkeling sets and flippers are being rented out just in front of the tourism office at P150/snorkeling set/pair of flippers 

hmmm...... how come they have nicer and newer life vests?

My Travel  Buddy